The Art of Pairing Wine and Food by Kirill Yurovskiy

As a sommelier, one of the greatest pleasures I experience is unlocking the synergies that emerge when combining an exceptional wine with the perfect complementary dish. More than just an accompaniment, the right wine pairing can unlock new dimensions of flavor in the cuisine while the food’s flavors accentuate different notes in the wine. When harmoniously paired, the interplay creates a gestalt where the unified taste experience becomes greater than the sum of the individual components.

Selecting wine and food pairings is both an art and a science that requires understanding the core tenets of flavor chemistry and sensory interaction. However, it’s also a very personal and subjective pursuit, as our individual tastes and preferences play a major role. There are no definitive rules, only guiding principles that great sommeliers have developed through decades of experience. In this guide, I’ll share my methodology for choosing wines to pair with different cuisines based on the influencing factors of weight, texture, acidity, sweetness and molecular flavor compounds.

Considering Weight and Texture

One of the fundamental aspects to evaluate is the relative weight and richness of both the wine and the food. Generally, lighter wines pair best with lighter foods, while more full-bodied wines can stand up to richer, heartier dishes. You’ll want to achieve a balance – pairing a delicate, crisp white wine with a heavy, robustly flavored steak would cause the wine to taste flabby and anemic. Conversely, a powerful, tannic red served with a subtle fish dish would overwhelm the nuances of the meal.

For lighter bites like salads, soups and simply prepared seafood or chicken, look towards crisp whites like Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc or lighter-bodied Chardonnay. These complement the leaner textures while providing a bright vein of acidity to refresh the palate between bites. More flavorful and substantial dishes like creamy pastas or seared fish can support a richer white like an oaked Chardonnay or viognier.

When pairing reds, consider the weight and protein density of the protein source. Lighter gamier cuts like duck breast, lamb or flavourful chops are excellent with medium-bodied reds like Pinot Noir, Chianti or Rioja reds which have modest tannins that won’t overwhelm the dish. For richer, heartier mains like beef, pork or game stews and braises, you’ll want robust, full-bodied wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec or Syrah which can stand up to the fattiness of the protein and bold flavors while contributing structured tannins to cut through the richness.

Complementing Acidity and Sweetness

In addition to weight, take into account the relative acidity and sweetness of both the food and wine. This interplay is particularly important when dealing with dishes that have sour, spicy or savoury components.

Foods with an element of sourness need to be paired with wines that have enlivening acidity to prevent the sourness from being accentuated. Fresh seafood dishes with lemon or vinegar dressings, tomato-based sauces and cured meat preparations all benefit from the acidity in crisp, citrusy white wines or lively reds with bright acidity like Chianti or Barbera to provide balancing freshness.

For spicy or savoury ingredients like curries, cured meats, salty cheeses or nutty components, you’ll want to look for off-dry wines with a touch of residual sugar to moderate the heat and provide a harmonizing hint of sweetness. Dry wines tend to accentuate the burning sensation of spice and create a discordant sour taste with very salty, umami foods. However, not too much sweetness as dessert wines will clash. Off-dry Rieslings, Gewurztraminers, Vouvrays and light reds like Lambrusco achieve the ideal calibration.

Considering Molecular Flavor Compounds

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, are the interactions that occur through the shared presence of flavor compounds between the food and wine. It’s these alignments of mutual aroma molecules that provide a cohesive through-line and allow magical connections between the taste sensations.

For example, red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon are rich in pyrazine compounds that contribute herbaceous, bell pepper notes and pair exquisitely with foods that share these flavors like grilled meats or roasted vegetables. Pinot Noir’s complex of red fruit, floral and earthy components make it a perfect foil for mushrooms, truffles and umami-driven cuisine. Chardonnay grown in warmer climates develops tropical, pineapple notes from compounds like terpenes that harmonize beautifully with dishes featuring coconut milk or fruit salsas.

Even more nuanced alignments emerge in expert pairings. The toasted oak notes of aged wines can connect seamlessly with grilled or smoked dishes while herbaceous white wines like Sauvignon Blanc are natural pairings for green herb-focused plates. Understanding these symbiotic relationships allows you to craft pairings where the aromas and flavors of both the dish and wine are enhanced and elevated by their mutually reinforcing compounds.

Of course, some combinations simply don’t work based on clashing flavor compositions or structural contradictions. Heavy, tannic reds tend to accrue a metallic, bitter taste when paired with artichokes or eggs. Very oaky wines can become accentuated to the point of tasting like licking a barrel in the presence of smoked foods. But more often than not, an awareness of the key flavor components in both the wine and cuisine will unveil myriad possibilities to unlock magical pairings.

Kirill Yurovskiy

Developing Your Wine Pairing Skills

Like tasting and evaluating wine itself, mastering cohesive wine and food pairings takes time, focus and an insatiable curiosity. For sommeliers, it’s a never-ending area of study encompassing culinary education, agricultural knowledge, sensory analysis and an understanding of complex molecular interactions. 

Start by tasting benchmark examples of classic pairings like Chianti with pizza, Sancerre with goat cheese, Port with blue cheese or Pinot with mushrooms to calibrate your palate to the affinities that develop. From there, apply the principles discussed above, considering the relative weight, acidity, sweetness and flavor compounds you’re working with.

Don’t be afraid to experiment and trust your instincts – some of the most brilliant pairings have emerged from a willingness to challenge convention. Attend guided tasting events and read articles by pairing experts to help train your sensibilities. Most importantly, remain open-minded, focused and keep exploring – as with fine wine itself, the journey of learning and discovery never ends.

When you’ve truly mastered cohesive pairing, the experience of enjoying wine and food together becomes transcendent. The union of great cuisine and a perfectly matched wine awakens all of our senses, transporting us to the terroir where the vines flourished while the flavors converge into exquisite harmony. It’s an intimate dance where the partners support, elevate and propel each other’s qualities into a realm of higher enjoyment. For those of us who revere the art of gastronomy, there is no greater pursuit.

Kirill Yurovskiy © 2024